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The water puppet show is an attraction that is synonymous with Hanoi, and was one of the things I’d had on the list since we started planning our trip. We turned up to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre box office on our second afternoon and it was hectic. Packed with people and every session that day was already sold out. We booked for the following afternoon and came back then.
I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, as I decided not to read too much about it beforehand. I had no idea what was going on, and found it completely charming anyway. I spent half the show watching the musicians rather than the puppets.
If you only have two or three nights in Hanoi, don’t leave this to chance. Book a day ahead, or lock in your session through Klook before you arrive.
This post covers what water puppetry actually is, what the show is like, whether it’s worth it with kids, and the practical details you need to book.
What water puppetry actually is
Vietnamese water puppetry dates back over a thousand years, originating in the villages of the Red River Delta. When the rice fields flooded, villagers performed on the water.
The puppets are made from lacquered wood and controlled by puppeteers hidden behind a bamboo curtain at the back of the stage, operating the figures through rods submerged under the water. The puppeteers can’t see the puppets directly while they’re performing, which made it all the more clever and fascinating to watch.
The show runs 17 scenes drawn from Vietnamese folklore, rural life, and mythology. There’s no overarching story connecting them. Each one is its own self-contained piece, which I didn’t realise during the show. If you go in expecting a narrative arc you’ll spend the entire time confused.
The Show – What to Expect
Before any puppets appear, the show opens with a solo concert of traditional Vietnamese instruments. The musicians sit to the side of the stage and stay there for the entire performance. They provide voices, sound effects, and atmosphere for every scene, not just the opening.
The instrument that stopped me completely was the đàn bầu. A Vietnamese monochord with a single string and a flexible rod. The player bends the rod while striking the string, producing a wavering sound unlike anything I’d heard before.
The puppet scenes
There are 17 scenes. The pamphlet you’re given at the door lists all of them in English, which is enough to follow along loosely without understanding a word of the commentary.
Chu Teu, the jester character, appears early and reappears throughout as a kind of narrator and comic relief. He’s broad and physical and makes the audience laugh even without understanding a word. The Dragon Dance is spectacular. A Little Boy with Flute on Buffalo is quiet and oddly beautiful. One puppet, one buffalo, unhurried. Fighting Fox — Catching Duck is chaotic and was our son’s favourite.
The Boat Trip of Emperor Le Loi is worth watching with a bit of context: this is the origin story for Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake right outside the theatre door. Emperor Le Loi was given a magical sword by a golden turtle, used it to defeat Chinese invaders, and was later asked to return it to the turtle on the lake. The lake was named Hoan Kiem, Lake of the Restored Sword. I didn’t know any of that going in. It made more sense after we visited Ngoc Son Temple on the lake and saw the turtle.
The finale, Dance of the Four Holy Animals, dragon, unicorn, turtle, and phoenix, is a proper closing spectacle.
A few of the scenes in the middle blur together. The farming and rural life ones are slower than the mythological scenes on either side.
Our son was a mix of engaged and drifting throughout. The scenes are short enough that even when attention wandered, it reset within a minute or two. Fifty minutes was the right length.
One observation worth making: a lady in front of us filmed essentially the entire show on her phone, camera held above her head. Take a few photos and put it away. You’re not going to watch that footage back and you’ll block the view of everyone behind you. I took six photos over the hour and can now barely remember what they were.
Is it worth it?
Yes, absolutely. It was short, inexpensive, and interesting enough that I’d happily do it again on a second trip.
The craftsmanship is impressive. The puppeteers can’t see the puppets they’re controlling, and yet they’re still that precise. The musicians are excellent and worth your attention independently. Also, it’s only fifty minutes. It’s long enough to be enjoyed, without losing your complete attention (or the kids).
If Hanoi weather turns wet, it’s one of the easiest indoor activities to slot into your day. It’s also air-conditioned. In Hanoi in October, that was a win of its own.
Practical information
| Address | 57B Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem — right on the lake |
| Open | 365 days a year |
| Show times | 1:45pm, 3:00pm, 4:10pm, 5:20pm, 6:30pm, 8:00pm, 9:15pm (subject to change, check in advance) |
| Duration | 50 minutes |
| Pricing | VIP 1 (front/mid-front): 200,000 VND — VIP 2 (mid-back): 150,000 VND — Standard (back): 100,000 VND |
| Booking | Box office at the theatre, or via Klook |
| Audio guide | ~50,000 VND add-on — we used the pamphlet instead, which was enough |
Afternoon sessions (4–6pm) sell out first. Book a day ahead.
A note on seating: mid-front is worth the extra. The puppet detail is hard to see from the back rows. The very front rows put you at an awkward upward angle. Row D, where we sat, was the sweet spot, and still only around $10 AUD.
We booked directly at the box office, which was straightforward. But if you’d rather avoid the risk of sold out sessions, check current availability here first.
Tips
- Book a day ahead, especially for the 4–6pm sessions
- Go for mid-front seating. Back rows lose the puppet detail
- Read the Le Loi legend before you go. It makes the Emperor’s boat scene considerably more interesting, and the lake it refers to is right outside the door
- Watch the musicians, not just the puppets, particularly the đàn bầu player on the left side of the stage
- Take a couple of photos, then put the camera away. You’re not going to watch that footage back.
How to fit this into your Hanoi time
The theatre is right on Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of the Old Quarter, with shows running throughout the day, which makes it easy to fit in at any stage of your plans. The lake loop takes around forty-five minutes at a casual pace. Do that first, wander through the nearby markets, then head in for the show. Afterwards you’re well placed for dinner in the Old Quarter.
It works particularly well mid-trip rather than on your first day. By the time we went we’d already walked the lake, found the cafes near St Joseph’s Cathedral, and had a feel for the area, the show slotted in naturally as an afternoon activity.
If you’re still planning your time in Hanoi, Where to Stay in Hanoi covers the Old Quarter in detail. Staying close to the lake puts the theatre within easy walking distance. And if you’re looking at day trips, Ninh Binh Day Trip is worth building into the same trip.
